Gourmet alleyways in Shibuya under redevelopment! Authentic tasting of the three popular dishes at "Tori Katsu CHICKEN"

In the redeveloping Shibuya, the traditional "Tori Katsu CHICKEN" hangs its noren in an alleyway building. This beloved restaurant has been cherished for half a century, offering a "popular set meal" that includes chicken katsu, ham katsu, and croquettes. The hidden gem, which can be reached by following the sign, is a well-known restaurant that you can boast about knowing.

The long-standing, intensely popular set meal restaurant "Tori Katsu CHICKEN" remaining in Shibuya's redevelopment area

Shibuya, which I walked through many times since my teenage years, has changed significantly due to redevelopment. While new buildings and shops have sprung up, I wonder how many places that preserve the old flavors still remain... With that feeling in mind, I decided to visit "Tori Katsu CHICKEN," which I had been curious about for a while.

This is my first time visiting. I walk over with my heart filled with anticipation, wondering if I can experience the taste of this long-established restaurant that has been around for over fifty years. I've heard it's a well-known establishment that only those "in the know" are aware of, so I'm also excited to finally be able to visit.

In a back alley area called Shibuya Hyakkendana, which is located along the Dogenzaka slope on the way from Shibuya Station. As I proceed through this corner that retains the ambiance of the Showa era, I see a vertically oriented sign that says "Tori Katsu CHICKEN."

It has a presence that you might overlook if you're not paying attention, but that in itself is proof of its status as a hidden gem. Right in front of that sign, a person who looks like a foreign tourist was taking a photo of the exterior with their smartphone.

Entering the building and going up the stairs, a plate with a red arrow invites you, saying "This way," and further inside, a white noren curtain sways at the entrance. Despite being only a few dozen meters away from the hustle and bustle of the main street, it feels like stepping into another world, creating a sense of exhilaration. It's exactly the thrill of discovering a hidden dungeon.

I arrived this day at 10:52 AM on a weekday. There was already a line of seven people waiting to enter.

To my surprise, all of them were foreign tourists, and despite being in a back alley of Shibuya, this place attracts people from all over the world. At this point, I was convinced it was a special establishment.

At 11 o'clock, I entered. A V-shaped counter and small tables welcomed me, and the style of preparing tea and chopsticks by oneself felt nostalgic, reminiscent of traditional set meal restaurants. The handwritten menus, worn with age and lined up on the wall, told the story of this establishment's history.

I ordered the restaurant's signature dish, the "Popular Set Meal."

This time, I ordered the "Popular Set Meal," which allows you to enjoy chicken cutlet, ham cutlet, and croquette all at once. The moment the freshly fried dishes were brought to my table, I couldn't help but swallow at the enticing aroma of the crispy coating and the rising steam.

The most popular torikatsu, when you use chopsticks, makes a crunchy sound as the coating breaks, and juicy meat juice flows out from inside. What surprised me when I took a bite was its tenderness.

Although it's chicken, it doesn’t feel fibrous at all, and it has a texture that seems to melt in my mouth. I couldn't help but think, "I've never had such tender torikatsu before."

The croquette is packed tightly with filling, achieving a perfect balance between the sweetness of the potatoes and the savoriness of the coating. The ham katsu uses thick slices of ham, and with every bite, the simple umami spreads. Each of these three dishes pairs perfectly with rice, and although they each have a presence worthy of a main dish, enjoying them as a set meal brought a nostalgic sense of satisfaction.

The staff's thoughtfulness and the taste of the pickles

While I was immersed in the freshly fried foods, a female staff member called out from across the counter, "If you'd like, you can try putting these pickles on your rice." When I placed the simple pickles on my white rice, they complemented the richness of the fried foods and provided a refreshing contrast in my mouth.

In the moment when you slightly pause your hand from eating, such thoughtful gestures are heartwarming. The reason it has been loved for over half a century is not only because of the deliciousness of the food itself, but also in these slices of human warmth that I felt.

A counter where people gather across borders

When I tell the traveler sitting next to me where the sauce is, they nod with a smile… Such small international exchanges happen naturally. A space where we can share "delicious" across nationalities and generations, I was able to spend a special time amid the hustle and bustle of Shibuya.

An iconic restaurant in Shibuya that makes you want to talk about it

In the changing landscape of Shibuya due to redevelopment, "Torikatsu CHICKEN" continues to welcome customers with unchanging deliciousness and warmth. The aroma of freshly fried food, simple pickles, and the smiles exchanged at the counter… all of it embodies the essence of true gourmet delights. It was a well-known establishment tucked away in the back streets of Shibuya that makes you want to tell someone about it.

Torikatsu CHICKEN
Location: 2-16-19 Dogenzaka, Shibuya, Tokyo, Toji Building 2F

Interview and text by SYURI

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