The pride and craftsmanship of Japanese artisans entrusted to a genuine sukajan: Interview with Saito Irei

That sukajan was made with uncompromising craftsmanship and came in a meticulously finished paulownia box, also made without any compromises. I interviewed Saito Irei, who established the high-end sukajan brand "JacksonSquare Tokyo Shibuya," to hear about the background of his thorough dedication to creating authentic products.

BiS Inc.
CEO Satoru Irei (いれいじょうさとる)
Born on December 22, 1994, from Kanagawa Prefecture. In April 2021, he established BiS Inc. in Ayase City, Kanagawa Prefecture, and began agency operations related to TV publicity. He has produced numerous brands, including the sukajan "Jackson Square Tokyo Shibuya" (ジャクソンスクエア) and leather goods like wallets from "TOUR RECORD" (トゥールレコード). His publications include "It's Okay to Take the Long Way" and "To You Who Chase Dreams ~ Dreams Create Life ~" (both published by Fast Book).

01｜I Want to Revive the Sukajan That Was Part of My Youth

"In the past, when I was still a bit of a brat. Riding my bike along the local Route 134, I saw someone wearing a sukajan. That memory has been etched in my mind."

This is what Satoru Irei, the founder of the sukajan brand "Jackson Square Tokyo Shibuya" (hereafter referred to as Jackson Square), shared. Having spent a tumultuous youth in Kanagawa Prefecture, he is now continuously developing brands that support traditional Japanese industries.

His reunion with the sukajan happened unexpectedly on Dobuita Street in Yokosuka.

※Dobuita Street = A shopping street about 300 meters long where many shops selling embroidered jumpers (sukajan) emerged after the war, as many American soldiers stationed in Japan bought them as souvenirs, due to the nearby U.S. Navy facility in Yokosuka.

"I had high hopes because I heard it was the home of Sukajan. But when I actually went there, most of the shops had their shutters down. Even when I finally found a shop that was open, many of the Sukajan jackets on display were of poor quality. It was more desolate than I had imagined, and I couldn't help but feel, 'Is this culture already over?'"

As I researched in more detail, I learned that there are very few craftsmen today who can create "genuine" works.

"I requested to 'order' something at a certain store (for sale). However, after waiting for six months, I heard nothing. In the end, I was told 'It's impossible because we are too busy to make it.' This made me realize the reality that it's becoming increasingly difficult to create 'good things' in Japan today."

Amidst this, a single Sukajan encountered at a long-established store completely changed Mr. Irei's perspective.

"Next to the mass-produced items, there were authentic sukajan jackets crafted by artisans — and the moment I saw them, I could tell they were entirely different from the mass-produced ones. The weight was different. I thought, 'This is it.' Right then, I clicked with the shop owner and decided to start a brand to revive the sukajan culture as a pride of Japan."

02｜The difference is in the accumulation of dedication by genuine craftsmen

"The Jackson Square sukajan is not just a 'jumper.' It is a 'work' where a story begins when you wear it."

The sukajan created by Mr. Irei has a completely different aura from the typical ones. If you deliberately look at the differences in details, it’s the embroidery threads, the texture of the fabric, how it conforms when worn, and the silhouette of how it is styled. The efforts and ingenuity of the craftsman packed into every detail contribute to the overwhelming presence of the entire piece.

"For example, the embroidery thread. Mass-produced items are made with efficiency in mind, like 'one roll of thread for one garment.' But the real thing is different. Multiple colors of thread are layered to create a three-dimensional effect and depth. By doing this, an aura is released as if the embroidery is speaking to you."

There is also a difference in satin fabric that goes beyond appearance. When lightly worn, mass-produced items transmit the thickness of the embroidery as stiffness, but a garment finished by a craftsman lacks such stress.

"The way it feels against the skin when worn, the drape when moving, and the softness to the touch. Even with large embroidery, it is surprisingly light and stress-free. Moreover, it retains its silhouette even when hung on a hanger. That's proof it is carefully sewn from the pattern." <

Embroidery can be original or semi-custom with traditional motifs. You can feel the history and meaning of motifs like dragons, carp, and cherry blossoms.

Through this accumulation of attention to detail, it becomes "a piece that can speak through wearing it" rather than just something to put on.

03 | The "Aesthetics of Renewal" Born from Defeat in Sukajan

The roots of sukajan are deeply connected to the post-war reconstruction of Japan. After the war, it began when American soldiers stationed in Japan had embroidery put on flight jackets as souvenirs to bring back to their home country.

"They would have names embroidered in Katakana, like 'Michael.' That was a time when it was considered 'cool.' With the skill of embroidery, Japanese people had no choice but to make a living. I believe that spirit is at the root of sukajan culture. It symbolizes the wisdom and pride of the Japanese rising from the ashes of defeat."

How can we pass down the pride of Yokosuka, which grew alongside the U.S. military, to future generations? Finding respect and creativity in that was Mr. Irei's way.

“The exotic scenery of Yokosuka, including its streets, is part of the Japanese landscape. The Sukajan was initially a souvenir made for Americans, but it is a culture of Japan created by artisans who put their lives into it. I seriously thought that we need to preserve this properly.”

04｜Wanting to deliver the "real thing" to young people

What Jackson Square particularly wants to convey is this pride to the younger generation.

“The current young generation, often referred to as Generation Z, can do all their shopping online, so they don’t have the opportunity to encounter the real thing. As a result, they cannot make comparisons. If they don’t interact with real things, they won’t understand the differences. But if they touch it even once, they will definitely notice the difference. That’s why we want to deliver it to them. The real thing to the younger generation.”

There was a time when various authentic items lined the shelves of department stores. However, now inexpensive items can be conveniently obtained. On the other hand, to encounter authenticity, one must search from places where such encounters can happen. Mr. Irei-mon's says that to notice the differences from mass-produced items, a "place to meet" is necessary.

"The younger generation has communication power, and their sensibilities are sharp. I believe that if we seriously convey the value of authenticity, they will respond appropriately."

In fact, model Yuki Ejima, dressed in the brand's sukajan, shared her thoughts as well.

"(Ejima) People around me ask, 'Why are you wearing such an authentic sukajan?' But once you try it on, you'll understand. This embroidery, this comfort."

05｜Not nurturing, but entrusting craftsmanship

To preserve the authenticity, it is important to inherit the skills of the craftsmen who create it, believes Irei-mon. Of course, he seems to be aware of the shortage of successors among craftsmen, but when asked about their training, the response was somewhat unexpected.

"Saying we 'nurture' craftsmen isn't something we should claim. I find it presumptuous. We simply create an environment where those craftsmen can think, 'I want to nurture this person.' That's all."

In a world of craftsmen struggling with a lack of successors, Irei-mon aims for an approach of "entrusting" rather than "nurturing." From Irei-mon's dedication to ensuring uncompromising work, one can sense the trust he has in the skills and pride of Japanese craftsmen.

"To do good work, a good environment is essential. To allow serious craftsmen to continue honing their skills, we must commit ourselves to supporting them from behind the scenes. I believe that's the essence of craftsmanship."

06｜Clothes that can speak enrich the depth of life.

"It's not just about wearing clothes. The clothes that can express 'why I chose this' are what create the depth of life. I want you to have such a piece close at hand."

The sukajan is a part of Japanese culture, a testament to craftsmen's skills, and the pride of the Japanese people.

No matter how much the times change, when one dons the weight of authenticity, conversations arise, communities grow, and culture continues. If it’s a genuine sukajan, it can carry the thoughts entrusted to it by history and be passed down to the next generation.

True authenticity embodies a pride that should be spoken of. By wearing it, one's own "story" begins to unfold.

Model Yuki Ejima (left)
Official model for JacksonSquake. Official ambassador for Shonan Bellmare Futsal Club, official ambassador for Shonan Gold Energy, MC for the YouTube channel "Max Exploration Team," and appearances on Cross FM radio, among others.

Model Rinta Iwasaki (right)
Official model for JacksonSquare. Official ambassador for Shonan Bellmare Futsal Club, official ambassador for Shonan Gold Energy, featured in PR videos for Ayase City in Kanagawa Prefecture, and published in Popteen Web magazine, among others.

JacksonSquare Tokyo Shibuya
Location: 8th Floor, Koito Building, 6-12-4 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Business hours: 10:00 AM – 7:00 PM (Visits by reservation only)
Regular holidays: Irregular holidays
TEL: 03-6626-9695 (Reservations required for visits)

Official website of JacksonSquare Tokyo Shibuya: http://jacksonsquare.bis-inc.co.jp/

Interview and text by Nanako Otake, photography by Masashi Kakino.