【Ramen Chronicles】Long lines are a must in Yokohama's Shin Sugita! Confirm the origin of Iekei at the direct lineage first store "Sugita-ya Main Store."

I visited the famous "Ramen Sugita Family Main Store," known as a direct descendant of the family lineage. I experienced the robust flavor unique to the direct line, as well as its refined taste. I had a chance to enjoy the craftsmanship of the artisans right in front of me; what does the flavor taste like?

The direct first store of the Iekei ramen chain, "Sugita-ya Honten," located in Yokohama, Shin-Sugita

"Ramen Sugita-ya Honten," located about a 3-minute walk from the west exit of JR Shin-Sugita Station in Yokohama, is the first store directly separated and given the noren from "Yoshimuraya," which is famous for Iekei ramen. I visited on a Saturday afternoon by car.

There are multiple coin parking lots scattered in the vicinity, making it easy to park. There is also a parking lot right across the street, with a fee of about 200 yen for 15 minutes, making it a convenient location for drive-in customers.

At the entrance, you first purchase a meal ticket and then line up. On that day, over 30 people were waiting, and it took about an hour to be seated, but the line moved relatively smoothly. While waiting, the aroma of pork bone and chicken carcass wafted through the air, strongly conveying the atmosphere that I had arrived at the heart of Iekei.

At the entrance, there is a vending machine for ramen, where you can purchase frozen ramen for takeout. While you cannot eat it immediately after purchasing, it is a convenient system for those who want to enjoy the flavor at home.

Furthermore, I received one of each of the two types of stickers as a keepsake. Such meticulous fan service is unique to direct descendants!?

I want to verify with family-style ramen! My five personal criteria

In order to capture the characteristics of Sugita family main store in a three-dimensional way, I will first organize my personal evaluation criteria for family-style ramen overall. During my visits to various family-style ramen shops, such as "Yoshimura-ya" and "Yamazaki-ya" at Yokohama Station West Exit, I have identified five perspectives that I personally feel are important.

1. Soup's density and sharpness

Taken at "Yoshimura-ya" at Yokohama Station West Exit.

The centerpiece of the family-style ramen is the soup made by simmering pork bones and chicken carcasses over high heat. Although rich, the soy sauce tare firmly tightens it, creating depth that is not just about heaviness.

A common feature among direct lineage shops is a certain level of "sharpness" within the richness, along with a long-lasting aftertaste.

2. Unity with Noodles

Photographed at "Yamazaki-ya" at the west exit of Yokohama Station.

In family-style ramen, medium-thick straight noodles from Sakai Seimen are often used, and how these noodles interact with the soup significantly changes the overall impression.

By combining the boiling time, the noodle's moisture content, and the way of draining, the unity between the noodles and the soup is created.

3. The Aroma of Chicken Oil (Chiyu)

Filmed at "Yoshimura" at Yokohama Station West Exit.

The gleaming chicken fat on the surface of the bowl is an important element that defines the aroma and richness of Iekei ramen. The aroma varies depending on the temperature of the soup and the thickness of the oil, which significantly affects the perception of flavor.

It is one of the points for judging the "essence" of Iekei.

4. The store's manners and atmosphere

Filmed at "Yamazaki" at Yokohama Station West Exit.

The actions of lifting the noodles, the rhythm of draining the water, the sound of turning the stock pot, the tension at the counter... Iekei ramen has the aspect of being a dish that is enjoyed not only for eating but also for the craftsman's actions.

The fact that the craftsmen wear boots and continue to maintain a certain style is also a characteristic of Iekei.

5. Toxicity and Revisitation

Photographed at "Yamazaki-ya" at Yokohama Station West Exit.

Whether it leaves an aftertaste that makes you think, "I want to eat it again" after finishing your meal.

The more the three elements of soup, noodles, and chicken fat are evenly combined, the more you want to revisit. This addictive charm is what supports the popularity of Iekei ramen.

The main branch of Sugita-ya showcases the true essence of Iekei

A bowl from the main branch of Sugita-ya excels in all five of these indicators. When you sit at the steamy counter, the sound of the pot being stirred and the rhythm of the draining resonate, creating a tension characteristic of a direct lineage shop.

The classic composition of chashu, spinach, and seaweed is perfectly arranged, and the visual of the golden chicken oil evenly spread out is exactly what you expect from a true family-style ramen.

The noodles are made from Sakai Seimen’s medium-thick straight noodles, which are known to pair well with the soup. The boiling level is on the softer side, which also makes them easy to hold the soup. The soy sauce tare is not the type that stands out but is designed with an emphasis on the overall harmony of the soup, resulting in a balance typical of the direct lineage.

The aroma of chicken oil and the perfect balance

The golden chicken oil covering the surface of the bowl is beautiful, and a fragrant aroma wafts up from the soup. The sharpness of the soy sauce and the richness of the chicken oil intertwine exquisitely, making it rich yet light. Each sip seems to change the layers of umami, reaching a level of perfection that makes you want to drink it all.

The chashu is made from thinly sliced pork belly, which is lightly smoked. The savory aroma and the meat's umami expand with each bite. The pairing with the soup is outstanding, creating a sense of unity as if it has been meticulously calculated. The soy sauce is somewhat subtle, giving an overall creaminess to the finish.

Experience the food culture of "Iekei" at the direct lineage first store

Sugita-ya Main Store is not just a place to enjoy Iekei ramen, but also offers:

- A unique work style typical of direct lineage
- A unique operating system with an opening time of 5 AM
- An atmosphere that conveys the Iekei culture as it is

It is a valuable establishment where you can experience "Iekei" as a food culture. The access from the parking lot is also good, making it a convenient stop during a drive. For those who want to know more about Iekei ramen, this is definitely a place worth visiting.

If you want to confirm the taste of the direct lineage, first head to Sugita-ya Main Store

From the fan services such as the vending machine at the entrance and stickers, the tension in the kitchen, to the composition of the dish unique to the direct lineage, every element is filled with essential factors to understand the main flow of Iekei ramen.

As a place where you can experience the food culture, history, and characteristics of Iekei ramen in a consolidated form, Sugita-ya Main Store can be considered the origin of the Iekei series.

Ramen Sugita-ya Main Store
Location: 3-5 Shin Sugita-cho, Isogo Ward, Yokohama City, Kanagawa Prefecture

Reporting and text by SYURI

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