In search of the specialty - Pork Cuts Noodles! I visited the long-established "Kujiraken," which has carried Yokohama's ramen culture

Founded in 1996, "Ramen Kujiraken" is located in Tsuzuki Ward, Yokohama. I stopped by while driving through the Center Kita area and tried their signature Pork Cuts Noodles in this shop nestled in a residential area.

I had always wanted to visit "Ramen Kujiraken" in Yokohama.

Kujiraken, a ramen shop founded in 1996, is located in the Tsuzuki Ward of Yokohama City. It is situated in a residential area of the Center Kita area, and its sign is quite noticeable. Rather than being a bustling restaurant aimed at tourists, it has the atmosphere of a ramen shop that locals want to visit. Although I had often heard its name when discussing ramen in Yokohama, this is actually my first time visiting. I had wanted to go there at least once for a long time.

During a drive on my day off, I remembered, "Oh right, I haven't been there yet," and turned the car's steering wheel towards the Senntaku North area. I headed south on Kuyakusho Street and made a turn at the shop beyond Ushikubo Park.

As I turned at the Ushikubo intersection, a shop appeared in the residential area. Surrounded by parks and houses, it has the atmosphere of a ramen shop situated within the daily living environment.

There's a dedicated parking area for 3 cars, so you can go by car with peace of mind.

Behind the shop, there is a parking lot, with three spaces designated for customers of Kujiraken, specifically "No. 1, 2, and 3." It's a comforting point for those arriving by car in this area.

I arrived around 12:30 on a weekday afternoon. It felt a bit quiet when I entered the store. However, that impression changed in just a few minutes as more customers came in and filled the seats, leading to a full house.

There were suited company employees, men in work uniforms who seemed to be working nearby, and regulars quietly dining alone. The clientele had a somewhat calm demeanor.

The signature menu item I ordered for the first time was "Pork Cutlet Noodles"

I always decide to order the signature dish at a ramen shop I visit for the first time. Kujiraken's most popular item is "Pork Cutlet Noodles (Rich Soy Sauce)" (1250 yen). After purchasing my meal ticket and handing it to the staff, I was informed, "Since it's fried, it will take a bit of time."

The star of the Pork Cutlet Noodles is, as its name suggests, "Pork Cutlet" (排骨). This term in Chinese refers to bone-in rib meat like spare ribs. Over time, it also came to refer to the dish made by seasoning and coating the spare ribs (including boneless pork cutlet-style meat in Japan) and frying them. The "Pork Cutlet Noodles" is topped with this pork cutlet.

At Kujiraken, the pork is also without bones, but it was freshly fried and cut into pieces for topping.

The amber-colored soup is refreshing, and the thin noodles are light.

When the bowl arrives, the first thing that catches the eye is the clear soup. A fine layer of oil floats on the surface, shimmering in the light. The amber liquid has a quiet presence just from its appearance. I take a spoonful first. Centered around the savory flavor of chicken, the seafood lightly fragrances the dish.

By the way, when we think of ramen from Yokohama, we now tend to picture the tonkotsu soy sauce-based ie-kei style, but Kujiraken's parko noodles are based on a clear soup soy sauce of chicken and seafood, differing from the so-called ie-kei style.

The dark soy sauce shapes the contour of the soup while not interfering with the broth. Centered around the savory flavor of chicken, the seafood's taste lightly overlaps. It has a sharpness, but is not the type that strongly asserts itself, leading to a refreshing aftertaste. Rather than being a ramen that is pushed by the heaviness of fat, it gives the impression of a bowl that creates satisfaction through the balance of broth.

The lightness of the thin straight noodles

Next, the noodles. They are thin straight noodles. With a smooth texture, they pair well with the soup. When you bring them to your mouth, they glide in with a lightness. The compatibility with the soup is not bad. Their slightly modest presence might be balancing the overall taste.

The signature "Pako" dramatically changes the impression of the ramen

And the star of this ramen is the Pako. The fried pork that spreads throughout the bowl has a significant visual impact. The freshly fried Pako has a crispy and light coating. When bitten into, the meat juice spreads out delectably. It has a solid sweet and spicy seasoning, making it delicious on its own.

However, the impressive thing about this Pako is how it changes the flavor of the soup. The frying oil and the umami of the meat gradually dissolve, adding richness and depth to the originally light soup. The soup you taste first and the one after eating some noodles are different, creating an interesting change in flavor over time.

A bowl where you can taste Yokohama's ramen culture

Kujiraken's ramen is not the type to surprise you with a strong impact. It is a calm bowl that lets you appreciate the balance of the broth. It's understandable that this shop has been hanging its noren for a long time in a residential area. It was a memorable ramen shop to stop by during a drive.

Ramen Kujiraken Yokohama Main Store
Location: 1-2-10 Ushikubo Nishi, Tsuzuki Ward, Yokohama City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Annex Park 1-B

Interview & Text by SYURI

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